General Tips & Hints

  • Aluminium is difficult to weld because it gives no notice when you have reached the melting point. Plus the working temperature of welding is so close to the melting point you must use advanced equipment. Techni-2000 Aluminium Brazing Rod makes repairs on most alloys – an excellent choice for both the pro and the beginner!
  • Cleaning – oxidisation is in most welding processes a real enemy. Flux is often used to held in the cleaning process. A clean surface is important to ensure a strong, permanent repair. When cleaning aluminium, don’t use steel, use a stainless steel brush, aluminium oxide sandpaper or grinding wheel.
  • Do not melt the rod with the torch. Instead, apply the heat to the aluminium (or whatever metal you are repairing). Time needed for thorough heating depends upon the thickness of the metal. Periodically draw the rod over the hot surface. When the rod begins to flow, it is ready (it acts like a thermometer). At this time, add more heat very carefully, especially when working with pot metal.
  • Watch for a smooth, shiny flow. A lumpy, dull flow indicates a cool or uneven surface temperature. The correct temperature will give a smooth, shiny finished “weld”. This is the sign of a good bond.
  • “Tin” the area to be repaired. It is vital that a good job of Tinning be accomplished because this gives the repair its strength. Then by building onto the tinned surface, areas can be built up or holes can be bridged (T-2000 bonds to itself easily).
  • V-ing out the crack will give more surface area and allow the piece to be filled to original shape. After repairs have been completed, chrome plating, anodization or any other method of surface preservation can be used over the repair.
  • On parts which have been completely broken or separated, a box of sand is a helpful aid in holding the pieces in position while making the repair. A jigging compound may be used, both to keep heat from travelling and to keep the material from flowing out the opposite side, while you repair it.
  • After securing the sections in a holding jig, apply heat to the joint area until it reaches the point where it will melt the rod upon touching – without playing the torch on the rod. Then, with the flame directed away from the rod, scratch the area to be wetted with the rod until it is apparent that the metal from the rod wets the aluminium. Use of a wire brush or steel tool for scratching is acceptable.
  • Techni-2000 can also be used with a reactive high-temperature soldering flux. While this method will give penetration into the joint and eliminates the need for scratching, these fluxes are very corrosive. The fluxes and their residues must be removed from the work, and the unsightly stains they produce are often not removable.
  • Do not direct the flame onto the rod. Let the heat from the aluminium surface melt the rod as you use it to scratch the surface. Use the rod to build a bridge across the joint; don’t try for penetration into the joint. If you anchor the bridge on both sides of the joint via scratching, it will do the job.
  • Cool slowly!
  • Use it on the right type of metal. Although its main use is on aluminium, it will also work on pot metal, brass, copper, zincalume and galvanised steel. However, it will not work on iron and steel. Aluminium alloys with little or no magnesium content will join more easily than those with more than 1.5 – 2% magnesium.
  • PRACTICE!!!! Use various types and thicknesses of metal. (A soft drink can with a hole in it is an excellent way to get the feel of the product.)